Task 3: Traditional Maltese Art and Design

Through years of invasion and foreign rule, Malta has adopted many traditions and values, that over the years, all developed and shaped this islands’ culture to what it is today.

L-għonnella

In the 19^th and 20^th centuries, women from all social classes used to wear clothes that covered up their whole bodies.  Although the style was similar from one social class to another, one can still see many variances in the clothing worn by the noble and those worn by the peasants.

Usually, woman from upper social classes wore the għonnella, or as it was also referred to as a faldetta. The għonnella was basically a women’s head dress and shawl, that covered the head but not the face. It was generally made out of dark coloured cotton or silk fabrics and worn in all weathers. In summer, the għonnella kept the women cool by catching breeze in the broad rounded frame that was starched stiffly, by means of a board or a whalebone. However, in inclement weather, it was usually adjusted to wrap more tightly and closer to the face. The wealthy also started to wear white or other bright coloured għonnielen for special occasions. 

Figure 1. Charles Frederick de Brocktorff – A Maltese lady in the Faldetta, waiting before the Harbour Master’s garden.

Figure 2.Michele Bellanti- The Faldetta

Figure 3. Maltese Ladies



On the other hand, the country side women wore the ċuqlana. It is said that the ċuqlana preceded the għonnella and in fact they are quite similar in style but not in quality. The ċuqlana was just an outer garment, worn on the head that covered only the back and the sides of the body. It was usually blue or another dark colour. (Maltese History & Heritage, 2013)

Figure 4. Carlo Camilleri
A Peasant wearing the ċuqlana and geżwira

Figure 5. Painting by Arthur Diehl (1899)

The għonnella was omnipresent throughout Malta, worn by almost all adult Maltese women, for centuries.  However, by the middle of the 20^th century, following the Second World War, it started to decrease popularity rapidly, and more Victorian clothing started to make the scene, especially on the wealthy. By the 1970’s it was almost desuetude and only seen among older members of the Maltese lay missionary movement (M.U.S.E.U.M). (Maltese History & Heritage, 2013).

This watercolour painting is showing different clothing in the beginning of the 20th century. One can see women without head dresses, Victorian clothing and different hats.





I personally love the għonnella because it used to distinguish the Maltese women from the rest of the world. 

However, even though the għonnella was unique to the Maltese Islands, we can still see similar clothing in other cultures around the world, especially in the East Hemisphere.

Some examples include:

Figure 6. The Chador. Worn by Muslim women

Figure 7. Saris worn by Indian women

Figure 8. Serbian Folk Dress. Similar to what Maltese peasants wore 
underneath the għonnella in the 19^th century.

Id-dgħajsa tal-Pass

Over time, the Maltese boat have evolved from working with oars, to sails, until the engine was invented and took their place later on. During its evolution the boat adapted technological ideas that helped to shape its characteristics.

Id-Dgħajsa tal-Pass used to serve as means of water transport. The voyages consisted of passengers embarking from one shore to another, primarily, in the Grand Harbour area, as well as Sliema.

Figure 9. Dgħajsa tal-Pass

The design of ‘id-Dgħajsa tal-Pass’(Passenger boat) consisted of a very high bow stem and stern. This helped the boatman to curtail the boat at quayside by holding the bow stem in his hand, whilst the passengers embarked the with ease. In the harbour all Maltese boats worked with oars, so they didn’t cause big waves. This offered security to the passengers aboard. The boat took about 6 passengers at a time, and as most work took place at night, a lantern used to be put at the top of the stern stem and another at the bow stem. This way, ships entering the harbour would see the boats crossing and avoid collision (Pulè, 2000)

Figure 10. The design of the passenger boat

Back then, this was a very popular way to go from one city to another, however, the boat owners never restrained themselves from decorating the boats to attract more passengers. The decorations usually included engravings and also the Navy ships emblems.

Figure 11. Decorations that could be found on a passenger boat

Figure 12. Decorations that could be found on a passenger boat

The construction of the Maltese boats, is a part of our Island's history. It developed around other crafts and skills of the Maltese and Gozitan littoral communities. The boats themselves are a wonder when considering the tools they had available in those days. This shows the dedication and the great skills craftsmen had before everything was industrialised and machine made.
Id-dgħajsa tal-Pass looks very similar to the Venetian gondolas, people use to get around the canals.

figure 13. The Venetian Gondola

Figure 14. The Maltese Passenger boat

References
-Maltese History & Heritage, 2013. The Maltese Faldetta - Ghonella. [online] Available at: <https://vassallohistory.wordpress.com/maltese-crafts/the-maltese-faldetta-l-ghonnella/> [Accessed 16 Jan. 2016].
-Pule`, C., 2000. Qxur, Biċċiet, u Opri tal-Bahar. Malta: Pubblikazzjonijiet Indipendenza.
-Society, N., 2016. Global Fashion Photos -- National Geographic. [online] National Geographic. Available at: <http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/countries/global-fashion-photos/#/fashion-monk-robe_12350_600x450.jpg> [Accessed 18 Jan. 2016].

-Zammit, V., 2005. Il-kostum Malti u d-drapp fl-istorja ta' Malta. Pietà: Pubblikazzjonijiet Indipendenza (PIN).